Culture of Issan
In the landlocked Northeast region of Thailand is an area unique in its diversity of culture. Issan (Isan or Isaan) means, literally, “Northeast” in the Thai language. Historically this area, the poorest part of Thailand, has been a part of several identifiable kingdoms, of which Thailand is just the most recent.
Because of this, there has occurred a fascinating mixture of the cultures of Laos, Cambodia, and Thailand. While some traditions have blurred or mixed, others have remained true to the original form as evocative samples of cultures which may not even remain in practice in the country of origin. They are all now the culture of Issan.
The people of Issan are of primarily Lao descent, which creates a huge difference from Central Thailand in dress, food, architecture, festivals, and the like. The influences of Central Thailand, however, are obvious. The “Thaification” program begun in the early 20th century has thoroughly implanted the Thai language, but it is sublimated in the local dialect, which remains predominantly Lao. Thais from Bangkok will immediately recognize an Issan native, speaking Thai, as such.
The cultural exchange in cuisine is fascinating in Issan. Many Central Thais have adopted Issan dishes and flavors, and vice versa. Oddly enough, the French influence in Laotian and Vietnamese cuisine has not transferred from across the Mekong river, while Central Thai cuisine has become popular in Issan. The major differences are the almost exclusive use of sticky, glutinous rice in Issan, and the fact that their food is actually much hotter than traditional Thai cuisine!
The major cultural focal point of a rural village in Issan is always the Buddhist temple.
Acting as erstwhile Town Hall, public meeting place, and public theatre for any kind of event, the temple is the center for all major activities. Here you can often hear the performers of Mor Iam, the historical folk music of the area, which dates back many centuries, and can be quite a spectacle.
Temples built by the Khmer of Cambodia also dot the countryside; ancient, magnificent examples of these can be found at Phimai and Phanom Rung. There are dozens of these Khmer temples which you may just happen upon as you travel the dusty roads of the province.
Issan is also known for the quality of its Muay Thai kickboxers. In the larger cities, if you like this type of sport, you will find that Issan is always well represented in tournaments of this ancient and very ritualistic sport and has fostered many champions. You may be able to see some fighters training in the province but you might have to ask around.
The culture of Issan should really be referred to as the cultures. There is great depth of Lao, Khmer, and Thai traditions, existing in harmony and a state of mutual assimilation. The way to find out about everything surrounding you when you travel there is to simply observe without judging, ask polite questions of those who may know, and enjoy what you discover.
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